oddBird ~ 52 St. Paul St. ~ St. Catharines

What, exactly, is Canadian food?  It’s a question that lingers, elusive and difficult to pin down.  We’ve fielded it countless times, and yet, there’s never a neat answer.  The notion of Canadian cuisine rarely travels beyond its borders; you don’t see Canadian restaurants cropping up in distant cities, luring tourists with their ehs?  It’s a patchwork of influences… drawn from every corner of the world, shaped by geography, by climate, by history… all stitched together in a way that defies easy categorization.

For years, we’ve brushed the question off, muttering something vague about regionalism.  But now, there’s something different.  There’s oddBirdthe unassuming restaurant in downtown St. Catharines that, with quiet confidence, is carving out a new vision of what Canadian cuisine can be.

For chefs Scott White and Justin Duc, it appears to not just be about their dishes.  It’s about a moment.  A certain rhythm of coast-to-coast flavors & ideas that feels distinctly Canadian.  Bold, diverse, unapologetically its own; each plate is a statement.  Each bite an invitation to see our vast, multifaceted land through the lens of their kitchen.

oddBird boasts an atmosphere that invites you in.  Full stop.  The kind of warmth that makes you forget about whatever it was you were trying to forget.

Michael, with his attentive service, is part of that charm… a quiet, unassuming presence that makes you feel like you’re not just another customer but a guest.

It’s a place where people come together, locals and visitors alike, looking for a meal that will leave them with something more than just a full stomach.  It’s the kind of place that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled upon something rare in the burgeoning culinary landscape of Ontario’s bread-basket.

The Beef Tartare we started with was not just food… it was a performance.

There was the sharp bite of pickles (acidic, almost defiant) and the smooth, grainy texture of Dijon alongside the salty capers.  Yet, there’s a fire that burns in the background; a heat from the chilies… just enough to make you lean forward, trying to figure it out.  The crostini, crisp and rigid, little Mounties holding the fort with all their might.

As Canadian as a starter can be.

Ricotta Gnocchi. Creminis. Truffle cream…

This trio is a sharp reminder that being soft and tender still carries weight.

  The gnocchi, light as air, wrapped in a truffle-scented mist reminiscent of The Falls; the earthiness of mushrooms anchoring it all.  This dish makes a statement; each bite like a firm pat on the shoulder.  “Knots in wood,” St. Kitts style.

Finally came the Braised Beef Short Rib a beast of a dish; a slow-cooked prayer to the gods of Canadian comfort food.

The jus, thick as the air in the GM factory at the end of a long shift, draped itself over the meat… its sticky, caramelized richness hugging the tender rib.  Many know that Brussels Sprouts have never really agreed with us.  These, however set the bar to another level… a crispy reminder of how bitterness can find balance.  And the cheesy potatoes were that quiet hat tip to everything we’ve ever known about indulgence.

It was as if the plate was speaking to us… “I’ll carry you right through the week.”

You know, there’s something to be said about all this.  A realization, maybe, that Canadian food is less a precise definition than a way of being, of moving, of coming together over a meal.  And right now, in St. Catharines, you can catch a glimpse of it at oddBird.

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And then, if you’re not in the mood for that same level of refinement, there’s oddBar—the sister spot just down the block.  Here, the promise is simple: hot pizza and cold beer.  No pretense.  Just the kind of food that satisfies without asking for anything.  What’s not to like?

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